Way too many Russians

36° 44′ 55.0304” N 28° 55′ 33.59” E

Göcek

The first thing we see as we look up at the morning sky is the Russian flag waving from the neighboring ship at our little Turkish jetty. Four Russian men in their 40s had the night before had the Russian flag hoisted to the top in starboard won, while toasting in small clear glasses and chanting along to the music down from the cabin.

The Russians take up a lot of space in Turkey.

Where 37 European countries have closed their airspace to Russian aircraft, Turkey still keep its airspace and airports open to Russians. The Russians are flocking to Turkey. To vacation or to avoid being in Russia. Probably most the first: To vacation.

Russian-owned yachts have been relocated from France, Italy and Greece to Turkey. Not just the much talked about megayachts of the oligarchs. Also larger motor yachts and catamarans.

“When our marinas are full this year, it’s because of the Russians. They have sailed their boats to Turkey on a large scale,” explains a marina employee in Göcek. Here the Russians do not risk their boats being seized. Here they can enjoy life, forget the war and sail in peace for the judgmental tone of the rest of Europe.

For the rest of us, it has caused the prices of a dock to explode. In just one month, the offer we have lying from a marina in Antalya has been raised no less than three times.

The Russians are everywhere. In the ports. In the bars. In the restaurants. Many of them greet, smile and say good morning. Live the carefree life as if the war in Ukraine has never been a reality.

The rest of us do not know which leg to stand on. Are they good Russians on the run from censorship and oppression in Russia? A few. Maybe. More in Istanbul than off the coast. Or are they just Russians who arrogantly hoist the Russian flag to show the rest of us that they are stunningly indifferent to our opinion and insist on continuing the good life to which they feel entitled.