Helgoland is actually fun. Very different
54° 10′ 33.4408” N 7° 53′ 48.1156” E
July 11, 2012
We sail in the Wadden Sea. Strange to think that six hours later, the water we’re looking at will be gone. We stick to the marked channel. 15 miles later we are out of the Elbe. We are in the North Sea, the part called the German Bight.
The waves have become larger and larger, as the river has turned into sea. Again, we head directly into the wind, and the tidal advantage, we secured ourselves from Cuxhaven to the North Sea, can not catch up with the force of the wind. After three hours of sailing, our speed of motor is down between two and three knots. We knock up and down in the waves and hardly feel, that we move forward. Annoying as there are still 60 nautical miles to the target of the day.
We decide to make new plans. We consider Bremerhaven (28 miles) and Wilhelmshaven (30 miles), but we choose instead Helgoland (16 nautical miles), because winds and currents are more favorable for Helgoland.
The waves are still high. Kirsten says they are three meters high. I believe they are a lot less. But it feels rough. The genoa sail has got a rope. The mainsail is not up at all. The motor works for the progress. Rain washes down most of the time. The wind keeps as promised: 9-13 meters per second, but it just feels more violent, when the waves at the same time are pretty huge.
We call Helgolands old military port at 15 o’clock. Tired, hungry and a little amazed to be right here, where we would previously have wrinkled our noses of this duty-free and tourist-invaded island.
After a late lunch we take a walk on the island. It’s actually fun. Very different. A world of its own.
There is a little Anholt (danish island) over it: Large natural areas. Viewpoints and beaches. But there is also something Las Vegas over it. Lots of cafes, restaurants, hotels and liquor stores ( “Shiffausrustüng” they are called close to the port).
You can get married on the island for € 898, including a tour of the old bunkers and three nights at a hotel. On the island there are maybe 100 stores. Two thirds trade with perfume and hard liquor.
Historically, Helgoland has been a center of corsairs and pirates. Today piracy assumes new forms. Everything costs money: Toilet, shower, electricity. Throw immediately a coin, thank you.
All cars are micro-small and runs on electricity. Bicycles are prohibited. Scooters allowed. Urban city is divided into “Unterland” at harbour-level and “Oberland” up on the rock. An elevator lifts the lazy from one part of town to the other. € 1.20 for a single journey with elevator.
One rain shower follows the next. The night is filled with thunder, lightning, strong winds and rain. It is rough on the North Sea.
Log-book: Sailed: 8.00. Destination: Borkum or Delfzijl. Arrival at Helgoland 15:00. Weather: Southwest 9-13 m / s. Rain.
We sail gently out into the Elbe estuary, now we really are on our way out into the world
53° 52′ 13.5264” N 8° 42′ 48.3372” E
July 10, 2012
The lock is open and waiting for us. Seven or eight boats are already in place. This lock is apparently free. You only pay one end of the Kiel channel.
Now we are really on our way! The fairytale opens with the lock gates, and we sail gently out into the Elbe estuary on our way out into the world.
The power is noticeable. Although we have the wind contrary, we log up to 9.4 knots. Ronja never sailed that fast before.
The water does not conspicuously differ from what we know from home. And yet. The traffic of large commercial ships are impressive, and together with the strong current, we get the feeling, that have come out into something big and different. The water is brown like clay. The light in the air takes color from that.
Skipper is happy. Finally we have a large sea in front of us.
The entrance to Cuxhaven is special. We were warned, that there could be a current of four knots across the entrance. That was right. Strange to feel your own ship moved by forces that much larger than yourself. We are taken sideways, but with extra revolutions from the engine we manage to get into the port.
We go for the City marina, get a bridge operator open the bridge, and find ourselves an excellent berth in the middle of the city.
We walk the city. Buy charts, tide tables and food. It rains. But we do see most of the city, and it certainly has charm. A seafaring town with lots of activities related to shipping, fishing and a manifestly huge industry transporting German tourists to the duty-free mecca of Helgoland. Or out to see seals in the Wadden Sea.
A blessed night. In the middle of the city. But quiet. Tomorrow we will leave early with the high tide.
Logbook: Sailed 8.00. Destination: Cuxhaven. Arrival: 11.30.
Farewell to Denmark. The adventure awaits
55° 2′ 23.082” N 10° 40′ 23.3076” E
July 5. – July 9, 2012
Five days ago Ronja left her permanent home port in danish Thurø Bund.
Lasse, Tianling, Nellie, Emilie and Molly waved goodbye from the pier, when we left on July 5.
After a short stop on danish island, Marstal, too meet with Hanne and Ebbe, the wind is favourable for Kiel. Ten meters per second from northeast, and 35 miles later we call Düsternbrook Marina in Kiel.
We do some sightseeing in Kiel and use a day for cleaning and minor repairs on the boat and the purchase of charts.
Sunday morning we go through the lock in the Kiel Canal, along with 10 other sailors and a giant container ship. It’s a bit scary to be in the same lock with such a huge ship.
Full concentration. The Kiel Kanal is relatively wide, but so are the big container-vessels
Kiel Canal is 100 kilometres long and with german precision the distance is marked with kilometre signs for every half kilometer. Although the channel as such is rather boring to sail on, we enjoy the good weather and the fact, that we are now heading out towards the big oceans.
After a short and heavy thunderstorm, the wind reaching 16 meters pr second, we call Brunsbüttel after 8½ hours sailing with the motor. Here is a small marina, located just before the lock out to the river Elbe. From our berth we follow the flow of huge ships going through the locks both day and night.
Brunsbüttel do make you a bit depressed. We meet lots of oil tanks and chemical factories. On the brink of the marina is a small restaurant, “Torhaüschen“. It has three palms standing in great pots in front of the restaurant. We are approaching the south?